Hi to all and sorry if I write in this forum. I am Roberto Mazzilis an Italian Trad mountaineer and a great friend of Matteo Vianini, the creator of the ANGEL of the Italian AC.

I have personally followed during these years the evolution of the prototypes of the ANGEL AC AlternatiCurrent.

 

In May, I tested some ANGEL prototypes in Indian Creek and Yosemite.

In Indian Creek we climbed for a week and they went very well, even if they were never cleaned and the sandstone and sand have soiled them very much,

They never jammed and bit the rock well.

Once we arrived in Yosemite instead we had a problem with the stems, if they were broken 3 pieces and one I had to leave broken to P2 of the Astroman, I did not have the hammer with me and I just could not remove it, I’m sorry I left them stuck.

I told AC the problem and they immediately changed the material of the stems and now there is no longer this danger of breakage, now the stems are made of Nylon, loaded with an elastomer and with the addition of a chemical component that protects them from UV rays,  even if they bend so many times they do not break.

If someone goes up the Astroman kindly remove it, I would feel a little better...

 

I recommend ANGEL for help with protection, do not replace the normal Cam but are a valid “jocker”, instead of bringing a 4 BD, one ANGEL weighing a little less and I have the opportunity to replace 5 colors BD. ANGEL is not very fast for extreme sport climbing, but where you are not at the "limit" are very good, they also hold where others pop out ( the cams have a logarithmic geometry of 12.5 and the springs that hold them rotated are very strong ).

 

Actually, however, they have a fairly important problem, they need at least a few minutes of use to understand and make the re-closing mechanism "fast"... on the company AC website there are many videos that help in this. Also the cost is important thing, but they solve very well the need to replace a Cam from 0.75 to 4 BD, and they work well with the Offsets.

But what I can say is that they are very resistant even if used badly.

 

Sorry for my intervention

I wish you a lot of good climbing.

Thank you.

Roberto Mazzilis

 

If you don’t know me… there are some information about me:

https://www.alpinismi.com/2018/06/18/roberto-mazzilis/

https://www.arrampicarnia.it/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/02-Roberto-Mazzilis_-larrampicata-lalpinismo-Arrampicarnia-e-i-150-a....pdf

 

sorry for my English